Three's Company This Summer

The Age

Saturday December 15, 2007

Jane Faulkner

Rose. Semillon. Riesling. These are three of the cheeriest wines for summer and make for just about unbeatable drinking. And why? Rose definitely for the colour, semillon because of its bright acidity and it's ultra-refreshing, and riesling because it's such a stunning variety no matter where it's grown - be it Australia, Germany, Austria or France. Not to forget another important factor, value for money.

Now with rose, there are plenty of overly sweet, highly alcoholic and boring examples on bottle shop shelves but avoid them. The best roses are on the dry to extremely dry side, with a bit of complexity that's not lost when the wine's chilled, refreshing with a crisp finish meaning you will want another sip. The 2007 grenache rose from S. C. Pannell, featured here a few weeks ago, is top of my list or try the Spanish equivalent, as in garnacha with the sensational Chivite Gran Feudo rosado 2006, $15. And perhaps a bottle or two of De Bortoli Estate pinot noir rose 2007, $25, for good measure.

As for semillon, well just take your pick from the impressive Hunter Valley line-up including these two excellent producers: Bimbadgen Estate and Thomas Wines, which includes the single vineyard semillon Braemore. Semillon is a real beauty of a variety because it's enjoyable on its own but a mighty match to seafood as it never dominates. And generally a bargain to boot usually hovering around the $25 mark.

As for riesling, the choice seems endless. It's easy to trot out the usual suspects from the likes of our current riesling king and queen, Stephanie Toole and her husband Jeffrey Grosset and their separate labels, Mount Horrocks and Grosset, because they're so good but let's not forget other outstanding examples such as Frankland Estate, Taylors, Jim Barry, Richmond Grove, Kilikanoon or Mount Langi Ghiran. You can buy outstanding riesling priced from $19.

But sometimes, the palate just wants to go all alternative and demands to be stimulated by thrilling whites such as Spanish albarino, or the groovy gruner veltliner, Austria's indigenous white, even the always pleasing soave that hails from Italy's Veneto region. Soave is either 100 per cent garganega or a blend of that variety and it's such a stunner, as it just glides across the palate. Pra is a top producer and its 2006 is a zesty, minerally wine with plenty of texture, $27, and of course there's the excellent range from Pieropan. Of the gruner veltliner, we're also lucky because outstanding producers such as Prager, FX Pichler and Emmerich Knoll make it to Australia. If someone opens a bottle from any of those producers, thank them profusely. Another lovely gruner veltliner is from Ott. Several different styles are made but at the moment the one known as Fass 4 2006, $31, is available. It has a fantastic floral bouquet, spicy and quite rich on the palate but not overbearing as it has minerality and a clean finish.

And with albarino, try Valdamor or Granbazan ambar, these wines delight and enchant for about $37 each. The 2006 from both producers has just hit the shelves and they taste downright fabulous. These wines are fresh, enticing, with floral notes such as honeysuckle, clean on the finish and a little viscous adding more weight.

If anyone is feeling a little overwhelmed - maybe it's the strange sounding varieties. Don't worry, they become easier to say after tasting them. So take a deep breath, ask your friendly independent wine retailer for advice and try something different this summer. Your jaded palate will thank you.

-- janefaulkner@winematters.com.au

JANE FAULKNER

© 2007 The Age

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